Support us!

Please consider making a donation to help our small business thrive. We simply cannot do this project without the wonderful support from the public.

Mail monetary donations or gift cards to:

Paca Pride Guest Ranch, PO BOX 1949, Granite Falls, WA 98252

Angel investors inquiries are always welcome.

12 Responses to Support us!

  1. George says:

    I am in Texas and looking for somewhere to get Barley Grass seed everywhere I look I run into a dead end..

  2. Jenna says:

    Hi David, I’ve been growing fodder in a spare bedroom in my house with those little seed trays.. I was able to get about 5 trays a day but did have trouble with mold on occasion .. I’m convinced it’s the way to go forward so I’m going to try to convert a portion of my barn into a grow room. I’ve got six cows (they are miniatures so only around 700lbs each) so I figure I need ~100lbs of fodder per day next winter, they have been moved out to pasture land now so I’ve stopped production of my fodder.. I purchased some 4×4 grow trays off craigs list I think one tray should give me the quanity of fodder I need each day.. I wanted to go with your trays but the cost was quite a bit more than the used trays I purchased so hopefully they will work and won’t be too difficult to manage because of their size. anyways.. I’m located in Portland Oregon and wondering if you get your DE from the local feed store if you have to order it? also wondering how you manage the huminity levels in your grow room.. I noticed in my back room I had to keep the window cracked to keep condensation from forming on the windows, their won’t be any windows in the barn setup so I need some other way to manage the humidity levels .. also if you have any recommendations for the best way to heat and cool the room I would love to hear your thoughts..

    Regards,

    Jenna

    • David says:

      When looking for a tray to grow fodder you want to look for one that has raised bottom sections and channels that allow the water to drain appropriately along with the starches. If your grow trays you purchase are flat bottom trays, you’ll end up having some challenges over the long haul with the quality and consistency of root mat development. Drainage is the single most critical component in tray design, so be sure that the trays you select will allow for excellent draining.

      Yes, the trays we sell are expensive, we purchased them at an even higher price than what we are now selling them for and still consider them worthy of investment. There are not many tray options on the market like the ones we use which are specifically designed for this kind of sprouting application. Most trays that are cheaper can be used, but do end up having their drawbacks or causing additional work and care during sprouting. Choosing the right tray for an infrastructure on our homestead that requires daily care is paramount to minimizing the efforts required.

      We get our Diatomaceous Earth from our local feed store. Most feed stores carry it. Ask for “perma guard”, be sure it is food grade.

      We heat our insulated fodder room with a simple space heater, 1500watt, to maintain 65F degree average. If you are flooding your trays correctly, and not watering the trays from above (i.e. misting or trickling down from tray to tray) then a good litmus test for humidity levels in the room is whether you see water droplets forming at the tops of the grassy sprouts of more mature trays. Strive to have dry sprout tops. If necessary, buy a de-humidifier for the grow space. In the summer an air-conditioner may be required, which also will de-humidify the space.

      • Jenna says:

        Thanks for your reply David, sorry didn’t mean to imply what you are selling was over priced, I don’t even know what you charge, I just ment in general what I’ve seen online are expensive .
        Thanks for the info on heating the room, sounds like you don’t have any problems with humidity with just using the heater if I’m understanding you correctly.. I’m hoping if I insulate the room in the barn well enough it won’t have any issues.. I think I will probably setup a ac unit so I can operate the room in the summer as well ..

        I saw a video on youtube about a diy system where they let the water from the tray above run into the trays below and then the bottom trays run into a gutter and outside.. do you see any issues with that setup? seems like it would require less water.. thoughts..

        Oh and I was wondering about the green drain valve you use.. what makes it necessary over just having a hole and the overflow valve? does it create a cyphon of sorts?

        sorry for so many questions.. just trying to learn what I can before I create my own dedicated fodder room..

      • David says:

        I do not recommend using a system that waters from the top and drains down into subsequent trays. This leads to numerous issues and problems within a system. Keep your trays in isolation from one another: water each separately, and let them drain separately.

        The grow trays in our system use two drains. The main green/teal colored drain is recessed within the tray that allows all the runoff from the lower channels in the bottom of the tray to drain through this drain. It has a removeable cap on it that prevents seeds from flowing through the drain. The other drain is the overflow drain and that comes into play on later, more mature, trays that have root mass which may also grow into the main drain slowing the flow of water. The importance of having a drain like this is it’s size. The drain is large enough to allow both water and the starches to flow quickly out of the tray and not be hindered by root growth. A common DIY method is to simply drill or punch small holes into a tray to drain. This is not a good approach as it leads to starch accumulation in the trays which then causes problems. Also, use fresh water for each watering, and don’t recycle the water via a reservoir, another bad approach for sprouting applications.

        While the drain fittings can be purchased separately, others who have tried to retrofit them to flat bottom trays end up having poor draining trays due to the lip on the drain fitting. IMHO, using the right trays for a fodder application is imperative. While, in general, sprouting grains and growing fodder mats is relatively straight foward, the devil is in the details. I’ve had numerous troubleshooting phone calls from DIY individuals trying to make other trays work that end up having more trouble than its worth. They either are doing too much work/effort or are experiencing mold/fermenting problems.

        Be sure to read all the comments section on the articles we’ve published regarding fodder. Most questions are already answered there. Beyond that if you need further assistance or help with your DIY system design, we offer phone/email support for a fee.

  3. mohsin says:

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n2X7tjuwa2I hi i am from india i want to grow barley fodder in green house on my terrace 10*20 size so please suggest this is possible to grow on terrace and please suggest how to maintains temp and humidity hear temp 65 to 85 f and humidity is 50 to 70 please suggest possibl to good grow balrey fodder

    • David says:

      In tropical climates, the challenge is maintaining temperatures and humidity, which tends to be much cooler for sprouting applications like this than may be economical. You may want to experiment with corn/maize too, which can be an option in warmer climates.

      My goal for my fodder room, in my location here in the Pacific Northwest, is 60-65F in temperature. Humidity will vary with the weather. I strive to keep the room on the drier side. My rule of thumb for determining if I need to lower the humidity is if I see water droplets at the tops of my sprouts. That means the sprouts are respirating faster than the room can evaporate it off. My fodder room tends not to have this challenge during the winter.

  4. morteza says:

    Hi dear friends
    I hope you are feeling good.
    My dear friend, I’m going to join a hydroponic forage producers, but because it is the first time they’d come to me if you have questions that I hope you can help me. I beg of you to send to the address the way answer.
    Morteza1305@gmail.com
    Do you think the hydroponic forage production is economically affordable?
    Are startup costs and other collection costs are high?
    What are the challenges facing the economic challenges? (For example, diseases and…)

    Hydroponics matter how diseases arise and how to deal with them?
    Is it dangerous to animals?

    The ideal environmental conditions such as temperature, humidity and light to what should be done?

    What type of lighting should be used? Natural or artificial? What color of artificial light is better?

    Do you need to use during the irrigation nutrient solution? Water hardness in the range should be?

    How to irrigate the better? Is the tray should always be wet?
    Thank you sincerely

    • David says:

      We invite you to read all our published articles here on our blog about Fodder Production. All your questions are answered within the articles and the comments sections.

  5. Skeet Alford says:

    We feed about 325 doe and buck rabbits with about 100 to 500 kits at a time. I would like a price on 20 trays to start with to see if we can make this work. We are in Florida and am going to be using a 10×12 dedicated room to grow in.

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